Commonly asked questions

When ordering a wood burning stove or cast iron stove, contact one of our dealers for further information. You will find a list of our dealers here on our website.

If your question hasn’t been answered on this FAQ page, you are welcome to contact us directly for additional assistance. Email at [email protected] or call + 46 371-20001. Our telephone hours are Monday to Friday 10.00-12.00 (Sweden time).

Start by fully opening the supply air damper. Place lighter briquettes in the center of the fireplace. Stack about 1 kg of kindling crosswise, like a log house, on top of the lighter briquettes. Start by lighting the briquettes. The briquettes should ignite the wood. Leave the fireplace door slightly open for the first few minutes until the wood is burning properly. Depending on the chimney draft, you may need to keep the door open a little longer to build up a temperature in the fireplace and get a satisfactory chimney draft. After a while, close the door and adjust the damper according to the desired intensity of the fire. The stove must be thoroughly heated before you start to lower the supply air damper.

NOTE! If you think the fire intensity is decreased when you close the fireplace door completely, you can open the damper, which is located in the ash door. This will provide further air and help keep the fire going. The primary air damper must be closed when the stove reaches a good temperature and a satisfactory chimney draft. This is important to achieve cleaner combustion.

Adding more wood
When the intensity of the fire has dropped, it is time to refill the firewood. Open the door carefully to avoid smoke leakage. Use a fireplace tool or piece of wood to distribute ash and embers. Fill with 2–4 pieces of wood (1–1.5 kg of wood) and leave the door slightly open until the fire intensity is good. Close the door completely when the wood is burning properly.

Continuous firing
It’s important to get clean combustion and make maximum use of the stove and wood. To achieve this you need to maintain the supply of wood and make sure the fire is burning at an efficient temperature. For clean combustion, avoid soot coating in the fireplace. The smoke should not be visible.

Wood as a fuel
You should always use dried wood, preferably with 15-20% moisture content, to get the most heat possible. Approximately 1–1.5 kg of wood per hour is a suitable amount of wood during normal burning.

Birchwood has the best calorific value. This is the measurement of heat or energy produced during combustion. 1 kg of birch wood gives about 4 kW of power. Hardwood logs are denser than softwood, and thus generally burn strongly for a longer period of time. If you use oak, birch or another type of wood with a high calorific value, you should always combine it with other types of wood. Otherwise, you risk damaging your fireplace.

• It’s important to light a fire in the stove regularly, especially if it is in a relatively unused and damp house or cottage. Moisture can cause rust.
• Protect the stove’s replaceable wear parts by using the stove correctly. It’s time to add more wood when you have a nice mixture between flames and ember. Close the fireplace door when you have a good and even temperature in the fireplace.
• Apply black polish to the entire stove, let it dry for 24 hours, and then polish with a cloth. Do this once a year. Not only does the paste make the wood burning stove more attractive, it contains graphite which provides certain rust protection.
• Empty the ashes if the container is more than half full. Otherwise, there is a risk of excessive heat in the stove, which may cause the replaceable parts (grate, side irons) to break.
• Clean the stove once a year. Remove the burners and check that they are nice and whole.
• Vacuum, if possible, behind the stove to remove dust and dirt, so the air can flow freely.
• Make sure that the refractory clay on the stove does not have cracks. Refractory clay makes the oven heat evenly and protects the oven roof from damage.

A slightly unpleasant odor can occur when lighting the new wood burning stove. This is perfectly normal and is due to oil coating or excess paint remaining on the casting. The smell disappears relatively quickly and does not return. A new wood burning stove should be lit carefully during the first couple of times. This makes the heat-resistant paint more durable.

Today’s houses are carefully built to protect us from the outside air. This means no air is coming in through windows or doors. To create good ventilation, mechanical exhaust air is used instead. This system moves the air from the rooms out of the house. Since a fireplace or wood burning stove requires fresh air to burn, you can connect outdoor air directly to the wood burning stove so it’s not colliding with the house’s mechanical exhaust air. There are different ways to draw an air duct to the stove depending on how the house is built, for example, if it is built on a cast slab or on a croft ground.

• It could be because the connection to the masonry has not been properly sealed. Ask the chimney sweep to check that the connection between the stove and the chimney is completely tight.
• The flue pipe could be clogged. Clean pipes and combustion chambers.
• The chimney may be too short, the cross-sectional area could be too big or the chimney has been blocked by bird nests. Contact a chimney sweep or dealer for guidance.
• It could be negative pressure in the house. This means cold air is being forced down the chimney. Open a window or get exterior ventilation near the stove.
• The wood logs may be too moist or too cold. Use only dry wood with a maximum moisture content of 20%. The wood should be at room temperature.

We get a lot of questions about this, especially as autumn approaches. When the fireplace is left unused for a long period, moisture creeps down into the chimney which counteracts the draft. The difference in temperature between outside and inside is quite small around this time of year and it affects the draft negatively.

There are some tricks to get around this depending on what the installation looks like. If there is a soot hatch on the chimney, you can light a piece of paper in the duct to get the draft started.

Focus on making the starting fire effective, this helps a lot to quickly increase the temperature in the chimney. It should be built of kindling and weigh about 1 kg. Keep the fireplace door slightly open for a little bit longer so that the fire gets as much air as possible. The stronger the airflow, the stronger and warmer the fire gets. The stove is not damaged by this.

The following advice applies to Viking 30 – Rear Connected

1. Lift the removable part on top of the stove (it’s located at the back). There should be a flue pipe connection under.
2. Remove the cover cap and pull the disc up. This helps the airflow go straight out to the chimney, which heats it up a lot quicker. Normally this disc is used for circulating the air in the stove to get better combustion and retain more heat in the room.
3. Fire like this for about a day to dry the chimney out and then put the disc and cover cap back on.

If you are installing a brand new wood burning stove, the instructions in the manual are included. If you are installing an older wood-burning stove, you may need to have more information.

We usually recommend:

• The lowest possible ceiling height should be 2,000 mm for a safe distance
• In front of the wood burning stove, there must be at least 1,000 mm to combustible material
• Non-insulated flues must have a distance of at least 500 mm to combustible material
• Make sure to have a 100 mm firewall, lightweight concrete, or similar material on the sides for insulation. An electric stove is considered combustible
• There must be a safety distance of at least 1,000 mm and 150 mm laterally between the stove and any top cabinet
• Be sure to have an air gap on the sides around the stove to allow the heat to circulate
• Freestanding wood burning stoves (not masonry) must have at least 500mm to the nearest combustible material
• The floor protection in front of the stove should be at least 400mm in front of and 100mm on each side of the fireplace door

  

Thorough cleaning
The glass can be cleaned and shiny in a minute if you have the necessary cleaning supplies ready. Fill a bowl with a few deciliters of water, and gather a pair of dish gloves, a roll of paper towels, and a pile of ashes you saved from previous fires.

Put on the gloves and tear off a section of the paper towel. Fold the paper a couple of times to be able to handle it more smoothly, then dip it first in the bowl of water and then in the pile of ash. The ash will stick to the paper. Hydrogen and ash together are an excellent tool for dissolving soot that obscures the view on the inside of the glass surfaces.

Simply wipe the inside of the glass with the ash-covered paper and, if necessary, take some new paper, and follow the same procedure. The inside of the glass will be damp for a while after you have treated it. Before the glass has dried completely, wipe clean and dry with a new paper towel. Done! Your glass door should be clean and shiny!

Daily cleaning
The DryWiper sponge works excellently for easy daily cleaning of the inside of the glass. No detergents or liquids are needed, just open the glass door, wipe the inside with the sponge, and you are finished!

Dry Wiper

Falling embers from the stove pose a risk of fire. If you have a combustible floor in front of your wood burning stove, it must be protected by a floor protector that covers at least 300 mm in front of the door and 100 mm along each side. The floor protector should be made of fireproof materials, for example: natural stone, concrete, sheet metal, or glass.

Contact a chimney sweep or a dealer, because the fireplace may have a leak or the chimney could be too tall.

Watch our video on how to replace spare parts here

1. Remove the hobs/rings and the crescent that is placed over the fireplace.
2. Start by angling in the right iron at the rear edge and then angle it upwards to be able to lift it out. Do the same with the left iron. The rear iron should now be loose and easy to lift out. (The rear iron does not apply to Smålandsspisen 1896)
3. When installing the new parts, start with the rear iron. Then the left and finally the right iron.
4. The grate is loose. You can easily pry up the grate with, for example, a screwdriver.

If the side irons have been deformed by the heat, they may be stuck. If so, you can tap gently with a hammer and pry with a screwdriver to loosen the iron.

NOTE! Never unscrew the hob/top of the stove! If you do, the guarantee does not apply.

Yes. When installing a fireplace and constructing a chimney, a building application must be submitted to the municipality’s building committee. Contact your building committee if you feel unsure about how to register. Information is also available on your municipality’s website.