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Start by opening the flue damper fully. Place firelighters in the center of the fire. Stack about 1 kg of kindling wood in a crosshatch pattern on top of the firelighters. Light the firelighters that, in turn, will ignite the wood. Leave the door slightly open for the first few minutes until the firewood burns appropriately. Depending on the flue draft, keep the door open a little longer to let the temperature build up in the stove and get sufficient flue draft. Next, close the door and adjust the damper according to the desired intensity of the fire. Make sure that the stove is thoroughly heated before you start to adjust the damper.

Please note! If the flames die down too much when you close the stove door completely, you can adjust the airflow by opening the primary air vent. The damper is located in the ash hatch. When the stove has reached a stable operating temperature and a satisfactory flue draft has been achieved, close the primary air vent for cleaner combustion.

Adding more firewood

When the intensity of the fire slows down, it is time to add more firewood. Open the door carefully to avoid smoke coming into the room. Use a fire rake or a piece of wood to spread out the ash and embers. Place 2 to 4 pieces of wood (1-1.5 kg) in the stove and wait for the wood to ignite before closing the door.

How to achieve a continuous burn in your stove

To ensure the wood burns properly, reaching the highest temperature in the fire bed is important. This will ensure clean combustion, and you maximize the efficiency of the stove and the wood. Clean combustion minimizes soot build-up in your stove. When the fire burns properly, the smoke should not be visible to the human eye.

Using wood as fuel

The highest calorific value comes from split birch wood. Hardwoods generally burn slower than softwoods, producing a more even heat. If you use oak, beech, or other types of wood with a high calorific value, you must always mix these with other types of wood. Otherwise, you risk damaging your stove. The wood must be dry, preferably with a 15-20% moisture content. Approximately 1–1.5 kg of wood per hour is suitable for normal heating and operation of a stove. 1 kg of birch wood generates around 4 kW of power.

Watch our videos to learn more!

The primary air is supplied by the door being ajar when the wood is placed in the stove and lit. There is also a primary air damper that is regulated on the ash pan. The damper is used to intensify the fire when the stove door is completely closed.

The secondary air is supplied through a fresh air inlet beneath the stove. The secondary air is then heated in the stove and finds its way to the fire via the holes on the firebox cast iron liner in the stove.

The flames leave the stove by traveling over the stove roof, where they are oxygenated once again via the air pipe (clean burning technology) for optimal combustion. The flames then travel down the right side of the stove. Then towards the back edge, leaving the stove through the back or the top, depending on the connection to the flue.

Yes, when installing a stove and flue, you must submit a permit application to the local building committee. Contact your city council if you need more clarification about the application process. Information is also available on your county’s website.

We receive many questions regarding this problem, especially when the fall draws near. When the stove is unlit for an extended period, moisture can build up in the flue, counteracting the air flow.

Temperature variations between the outdoors and indoors are minor at this time of year, negatively affecting airflow. The flue is the key component in the installation, and if the stove does not get enough airflow, this problem will occur. Find out what to do by reading below or watching our video here.

There are a few tricks to avoid this problem, depending on your installation type. If a soot door is in the flue, you can light a piece of paper inside the duct to get the airflow going.

The initial fire is also important when first lighting your stove. It must be built from small sticks weighing about 1 kg. This helps the stove reach a high temperature, and the flue starts working faster. You can also leave the stove door slightly open longer than usual to allow the fire to burn harder in the start-up phase. This will not cause damage to the stove.

Watch our video on how to change spare parts here.

1. Remove the stove top plates and rings and the crescent on the stove.
2. Start by angling the right iron at the back edge and angle it upwards to remove it. Repeat the process for the left iron. The rear iron is now loose, and you can easily remove it. (The rear iron does not apply to the Smålandsspisen 1896 model).
3. To install the replacement parts, start with the rear iron. Follow with the left and finally the right iron.
4. The grate is loose. You can easily remove the grate with, for example, the help of a screwdriver.

If the heat has deformed the side irons, they may be stuck. Try tapping gently with a hammer and use a screwdriver to help loosen the iron.

Please note! Never unscrew the hob or top of the stove, as this will void the warranty.

• It is important to light the stove occasionally, especially if it is installed in a relatively unused and damp house. Rainwater and moisture can cause rust.
• Protect the stove’s replaceable wear parts by not burning the fire intensely. Close the door when the fire first ignites. To ensure a pleasant, even temperature, put more wood in the stove only when you see embers and flames.
• Blacken the stove a few times a year. Apply black stove polish to the entire stove, let it dry for a day, and then polish it with a soft cloth. The black polish will not only make the wood-burning cooker look nicer, it also contains graphite which provides some rust protection.
• Remove ash from the stove if it is more than half full. Too much ash takes up space for the fire, and the stove can get too hot, leading to burn damage on the grate and the firebox cast iron liners.
• Clean the stove a few times a year. Remove the firebox cast iron liner and check for damage.
• Vacuum behind the stove to remove dust and dirt to allow the air to flow freely.
• Make sure the fire clay on the stove is whole and undamaged. The fire clay ensures that the stove roof lasts longer and contributes to a more even heat inside the stove.

Watch our video on how to change spare parts and replace clay here.

You will need the following:

• A pot of fire clay
• Some kind of trowel (we use a putty spade as it spreads the clay easily)
• A bucket of water
• A tealight

First, gently tap away the clay to be replaced until the surface of the stove roof is smooth. Mix all the clay and the metal shavings (5 kg) with 0.5 liters of water until a thick paste is formed. Apply the paste to the entire stove grid with a 10-15 mm thickness and as evenly distributed as possible. Do not place the stove top plates or rings back on the stove on the first day after application.

Tip! Place 4-5 tealights in the oven, making it easier for moisture to escape the clay, preventing the build-up of moisture which can result in the clay cracking.

After three days, you can use the wood-burning cooker again. If you start using your stove earlier, you risk the clay cracking. Over time, you must apply a new layer.

For optimal results, following the instructions on the packaging carefully is essential. Not using enough water increases the risk of stresses and cracks, and the mortar becomes too weak with too much water. Use the mixed paste within 1 hour.

New homes are today built airtight and no air comes in from the outside via, for example, windows or doors. To create ventilation in an airtight house, mechanical ventilation systems are used instead. The ventilation system draws air from the rooms and out of the house. A wood stove or a wood stove cooker needs air to function. To avoid competing with the home’s mechanical ventilation, connecting outside air directly to the stove is possible. There are different ways to draw an air duct to a stove depending on the construction of the house, for example, if it is built on a concrete slab or an elevated foundation.

If you install a brand-new wood-burning cooker, you will find exact instructions in the accompanying manual. If, on the other hand, you are installing an older wood-burning cooker, here are some helpful guidelines.

We usually recommend:

• The minimum ceiling height should be 2000 mm to ensure a safe distance.
• In front of the wood-burning cooker, there must be a distance of at least 1000 mm to any combustible materials.
• Non-insulated flues must be a minimum distance of 500 mm from any flammable materials.
• Ensure you have a 100 mm firewall made of lightweight concrete or similar material on each side of the stove to create a safe distance from combustible materials. Electric stoves are considered combustible.
• There must be a safety distance of at least 1000 mm and 150 mm side to side between the stove and any overhead cabinet.
• Ensure you have an air gap around the sides of the stove to allow the heat to circulate.
• Freestanding wood-burning cookers must have a distance of at least 500mm from the nearest combustible material.
• The fireplace stove hearth in front of the stove should be at least 400 mm and extend a minimum of 100 mm on each side of the stove door.

When you first use your new wood-burning cooker, there may be a slightly unpleasant smell. This is completely normal and is due to the oil coating or excess paint remaining on the casting. The smell disappears relatively quickly and does not return. A new wood-burning cooker should be operated carefully during the first few times you use it to help the heat-resistant paint become more durable.

• Ask the chimney sweep to check that the connection between the stove and the flue is completely airtight and that it is sealed correctly.
• The connection to the brick block is not properly sealed.
• The flue pipe may be clogged. Clean the flue and the combustion chamber.
• The flue may be too short, have too large a cross-sectional area, or be clogged with bird nests. Contact your chimney sweep or retailer for guidance.
• There can be negative air pressure in your home. Open a window or install an exterior wall vent near the stove.
• The moisture content of your firewood may be too high, or you may be using cold firewood. Only use room-temperature dry wood with a maximum moisture content of 20%.

The width of the hob:

3026 = Approx. 80 cm wide

3027 = Approx. 70 cm wide

A new wood-burning cooker has a modern combustion system and is better sealed. The heat output is significantly higher, meaning you do not need to burn as much wood or for as long, to achieve the same effect. We have rebuilt and improved the combustion technology in older stoves, such as the Smålandspisen 1896. The stove no longer takes in air via the ash hatch.

Today, the combustion air enters through the bottom plate through ducts and exits from the holes on the side irons in the stove. There is also a pipe we call the Airpipe. This pipe oxygenates the flames one more time before exiting the stove. Today, the efficiency is 83% compared to 50-60% in older stoves. All of our stoves use this new combustion technology.

Please read our article, where we highlight differences in detail and use images to illustrate how the combustion air passes through the stove.

Contact a chimney sweep or your retailer if you are experiencing this problem, as your stove may receive unintended excess air, or your flue may be too long.

Falling embers from the stove are a fire risk. If the floor in front of your wood stove is made from combustible material, it must be protected by a floor protector that covers at least 300 mm in front of the door and 100 mm along each side. The floor protection can be made from, for example, natural stone, concrete, sheet metal, or glass.

Fire clay is a clay that can withstand high temperatures. It is used to protect important parts inside the stove. In a wood-burning cooker, the clay is used over the stove roof for protection and even heat distribution. The clay wears out over time and needs to be replaced periodically. When the clay starts to burn out, it becomes pulverized and breaks apart. We recommend replacing the fire clay every two years if you use your stove regularly.

A thorough cleaning

If you’re quick and well-prepared, the glass doors can be clean in just a minute! You will need a bowl of water, some rubber gloves, a roll of kitchen paper and a pile of previously saved ashes from your stove. Wear rubber gloves, tear off and fold several sheets of paper towel. Dip the towel in the water first, then into the ashes so they stick to the paper. The water and the ash together are an excellent way to dissolve soot on the inside of the glass. Simply wipe the inside of the glass with the ash-covered paper and repeat if necessary. While the glass is still damp, wipe it clean and dry it with clean paper towels. Look how clear your glass is again!

Daily cleaning

The Dry Wiper sponge is perfect for easy daily cleaning of the inside of the glass. No cleaning agents or liquids are necessary. Open the glass door, wipe the inside with the sponge, and you’re done! An excellent accessory for the wood-burning enthusiast.

Operating your stove correctly will have a direct effect on the efficiency of your wood-burning cooker. For example, always use dry wood and do not burn rubbish, such as milk cartons. If you don’t use your baking oven, a tip is to fill it with soapstone for an extended cooling-off time. This reduces wood consumption and also emissions.

It is likely choosing the wrong size, like a stove that generates too much heat for a smaller room. To be able to use the oven, the stove must be running for a few hours.

There is a difference in the enamel as the 1926 and 1927 have slightly more yellow tones. Otherwise, the stoves are the same width and are very similar in design.

However, the stove door is rather more square shaped on a 1927 and 1926.

The firebox cast iron liner for both the oven side and the tank side are also the same for the 1926 and 3026 as well as the 1927 and 3027.